Intro to Slopers

Overview

To many climbers, slopers are the most frustrating holds on the wall. Unlike crimps or jugs, slopers can’t be brute-forced—they demand technique, body awareness, and friction rather than sheer strength.

Here are four key principles to effectively use slopers:

• Grip technique: Adjust your grip based on the size, texture, and orientation of the sloper.
• Center of gravity (COG): Align your body in a way that maximizes friction and control.
• Transitions: Know how to move to and from slopers both statically and dynamically.
• Footwork: Use precise foot placements to maintain balance and control.

Grip: Maximize Surface Contact

Slopers are all about surface area. Rather than crimping, aim for an open-hand grip that spreads your palm and fingers across the hold. The goal is to create as much skin-to-hold contact as possible.

[Image – Open Hand Grip]

In some situations, slopers can’t be grabbed conventionally. For instance, if a sloper is too high or rounded, you might need to push against it with both palms rather than pull on it.

[Image – Using a Sloper for Pushing Up]

If the sloper is extremely slippery or rounded, interlocking your fingers around it or using compression techniques with both hands might provide the stability you need.

[Image – Gripping a Slippery Sloper by Interlocking Hands]

Center of Gravity: Stay Close to the Wall

Friction is your best friend with slopers, and gravity can work for or against you. Keep your COG directly beneath the hold and as close to the wall as possible. This helps press your body weight into the hold, increasing friction and control.

[Image – Full Body Position on Sloper]

Transitions: Static vs. Dynamic

There are two main ways to transition from or to a sloper:

• Static transitions
• Dynamic transitions

Static transitions: Slow, controlled movements that prioritize balance and minimize sudden shifts in weight.

Dynamic transitions: Using momentum to move quickly between holds, often necessary when slopers don’t allow for secure pauses.

Static moves require careful foot placement and controlled body shifts—move your feet, adjust your COG, and then reach.

[Image – Reaching from Sloper to Another Hold]

Dynamic transitions work better from slopers than to them. Build momentum, commit fully, and aim precisely. Catching a sloper dynamically is far riskier unless you’re confident in the beta and body tension.

[Graphic – Using Momentum]

Footwork: Precision Matters

Slopers expose weak footwork quickly. Proper foot placement helps lower your COG and increases your overall stability. Use edging, smearing, and flagging to distribute weight effectively and maintain tension through your core. Footwork on slopers follows the same fundamentals as other holds—but mistakes are punished more harshly.

Summary

Slopers are challenging by design. They're less about brute strength and more about finesse, friction, and body positioning. Mastering them means embracing discomfort, slowing things down, and refining your technique.