Intro to Slight Overhang

Overview

Slightly overhanging walls — typically between 100° and 110° — ask for more strength than a slab but still reward good technique. This is where many climbers first feel the need to really engage their core, use momentum strategically, and manage fatigue. In this lesson, we’ll dive into:

What defines a “slight” overhang
Movement principles for efficiency
How to use hips, feet, and tension to your advantage

What is a Slight Overhang?

Climbs in this range lean just beyond vertical — enough to pull your center of gravity away from the wall but not so steep you’re horizontal. These routes often feel pumpy because your arms and shoulders stay activated longer. But it’s not just about pulling harder — smart technique makes a huge difference.

Movement and Body Control

[Image - Slight Overhang Body Position]

To move efficiently on slightly overhanging terrain:

Stay Tight: Keep your hips in and core engaged. Sagging leads to unnecessary effort.
Drive with Legs: Use toe pushes and hip shifts instead of brute pulling. Think of climbing up, not out.
Drop Knees and Flags: These help reduce swing and keep your weight centered.

You’ll often need to move dynamically but under control — swinging wildly wastes energy fast.

Common Mistakes and Fixes

Overgripping – The angle creates a slight feeling of “falling backward.” Don’t panic-grip — use feet to stay upright and conserve energy.

Overreaching – Reaching too far can break your form. Focus on shorter, tighter moves that keep you close to the wall.

Bad Footwork – Feet matter more than you think. Use small footholds actively and keep heels low to control swing.

No Core Engagement – Your core isn’t just for show. Engage it to prevent your hips from sagging and your body from peeling off the wall.

[Image - Proper Flag or Drop Knee Example]

Quick Tips:

Use the inside edge of your toes for precision and push power.
Engage your core on every move — this is where overhang climbing starts to expose weak midlines.
Practice drop knees and hip turns on moderate terrain before trying them on steeper angles.
Use momentum — controlled dynamic movement can be more efficient than static straining.
If you feel like you’re fighting gravity, you probably are. Adjust your body position to make gravity work with you, not against you.

Summary

Slight overhangs are where technique and strength begin to intersect. You can’t brute force your way up forever — so efficient movement, core control, and smart body positioning become essential. Learn to read sequences, stay tight, and move with purpose. These are the skills that will serve you as terrain gets steeper.