Intro to Roofs and Caves

Overview

Roof climbing — terrain that approaches or hits horizontal — is brutally honest. It forces you to engage your entire body, stay in control under intense strain, and make strategic use of every hook and pivot. This lesson covers:

What defines roof and cave climbing
Key movement tactics for extreme steepness
How to rest and reset mid-roof

What is Roof and Cave Climbing?

Roofs typically refer to terrain steeper than 130°, often horizontal (180°). Caves may blend roofs, overhangs, and transitions. You’re usually climbing with your back parallel to the ground, relying on feet and core to stay close to the wall. Holds may be jugs, but moving between them without swinging out takes technique, not just force.

Movement and Tension

[Image - Roof Climbing with Double Toe Hook]

On roofs, your feet do as much work as your hands. Tension is king, and every hook matters:

Toe Hooks Are Primary Tools: In roof terrain, toe hooks don’t just stabilize — they drive movement. Practice switching and controlling tension through your shins and hips.
Double Hooks for Control: Use opposing toe or heel hooks to stay centered and reduce swing — especially when making reaches or cuts.
Stay Low and Compact: Keep hips close to the wall and knees tucked. Long, hanging limbs create swing and sap energy.

In cave terrain, move like you’re on monkey bars — but controlled by core tension, not momentum alone. Every movement should preserve body position.

Strategic Roof Tactics

Hook to Rest – Kneebars (Kneebar Article), calf presses, and opposing toe/heel hooks (Toe Hooks Article, Heel Hook Article) can create hands-free rests — even upside down. Search for these before launching into cruxes.

Sequence Footwork First – Hands get the glory, but your feet do the work. Plan foot switches and pivot points ahead of time.

Keep a Wide Base – Avoid "hanging by your arms" through roofs. Spread out diagonally when possible — it reduces swing and improves control.

Exit Clean – Roof exits are often where climbers flame out. Save energy, spot the transition, and move fast but in control.

[Image - Kneebar Rest in a Cave]

Quick Tips:

Practice roof movement on low boulders — refine tension before you go big.
Use heel-to-toe transitions mid-move — don't rely on one foot to do it all.
Toe scums and shins can help you pivot and rest — not just toe hooks.
Downsize shoes slightly for better roof grip and toe feel.
If your feet cut, reset before the next move — tension is recoverable, panic is not.

Summary

Roofs and caves expose poor tension, rushed pacing, and sloppy footwork. But they reward precise movement, strong body awareness, and smart resting. Master these elements, and you’ll unlock terrain that once felt impossible — and have a hell of a lot of fun doing it.