“Holds with holes in them” is how most climbers would describe a pocket. However, there are many more factors than just “holes” that define a pocket, and many more factors for how best to deal with a pocket. In this article, you will learn about:
A pocket is a type of hold featuring a hole in the middle of it for fingers to go into. The depth and size of the hole can signify how to grip it and how many fingers you should use.
[Image - Finger Pocket]
1. Finger Pockets: These are shallow holds designed to accommodate one or more
fingers. They often require precise
finger placement and engagement.
[Image - Closed Pocket]
2. Closed Pockets: Deep enough to fit
your whole hand, closed pockets can provide a more secure grip. They allow for a
more powerful pull, making them excellent for dynamic movements.
[Image - Pinch Pockets]
3.
Pinch Pockets: These have a narrower width and can often be held by pinching. They require strength and
technique to
maintain grip as you engage the sides of the pocket.
The grip position you choose when using pockets
can significantly influence your climbing performance. Gripping should be picked based on what you are
comfortable with, the type of pocket, and any other situational factors.
[Image - Fingertip Grip]
1. Fingertip Grip: Ideal for shallow finger pockets, this grip uses just the
fingertips to maximize reach and minimize
fatigue. Focus on engaging your forearm muscles for stability.
[Image - Open Hand Grip]
2.
Open Hand Grip: This position is effective in closed pockets, where your entire hand fits snugly. Pressing
down
through your palm can create more power, allowing for solid upward movements.
[Image - Pinch
Grip]
3. Pinch Grip: For pinch pockets, use your thumb and fingers to create a squeezing action. This
grip leverages the strength of your hand's muscles and helps maintain balance.
Using pockets effectively requires a blend of strength, technique, and body positioning:
1.
Engagement: Actively engage your fingers and hand muscles to maintain a secure grip, especially in shallow
pockets.
2. Body Positioning: Align your body for optimal balance. Keeping your hips close to the
wall can reduce weight on your
hands and enhance stability.
3. Footwork: Accurate foot placement is crucial when using pockets. Use
your feet for balance and push off while keeping
your body centered over your hands.
4. Dynamic Movements: When moving from one hold to another,
practice controlled, dynamic movements to maintain momentum
while ensuring a safe grip on the pocket.
5. Resting Technique: In longer routes or bouldering
problems, utilize pockets as resting positions. Shift your weight to minimize strain on your arms, allowing
for recovery.
By practicing these techniques and understanding the types of pockets you'll encounter, you will be better equipped to tackle climbs that feature these challenging holds. Remember, the mastery of pocket technique not only enhances your climbing performance but also contributes to a deeper appreciation for the nuances of the sport.