Intro to Pinches

Overview

Pinches look simple, but don’t be fooled — they’re among the most deceptive holds in climbing. They test your grip strength, forearm engagement, and how well you can manage body positioning under load. In this lesson, we’ll cover:

What is a pinch?
How to identify and engage them
Key body positions and technique tips

What is a Pinch?

A pinch is any hold that requires the thumb to oppose the fingers, squeezing the hold from both sides like, well... a clamp. The bigger or more rounded the pinch, the more surface area you have to control — but also the more strength and tension it demands. You can’t fake a pinch. If you're not actually engaging your thumb, you're not really using the hold.

Recognizing and Using Pinches

[Image - Pinch Hold Example]

Pinches can come in many forms: narrow vertical edges, slopers with a lip, or full-on volumes that require full-hand compression. Key strategies include:

Place the base of your thumb directly against the hold — don't just hover it near the grip.
Pull inward while simultaneously squeezing the hold. Think “press and pull.”
Use your body to help generate compression, especially on volumes or wide pinches.

If a pinch feels unusable, it probably means your body isn't set up to help you compress — not that the hold itself is bad.

Body Position and Technique

Thumb Activation – If your thumb isn't burning, you’re probably not using it. Active pinching means thumb and fingers both apply force. Lazy thumbs make for failed moves.

Elbow and Shoulder Engagement – Keep your elbow slightly bent and your shoulder engaged to help transmit squeezing force. Avoid locking out and relying purely on finger strength.

Compression with Legs – On routes with large opposing holds (volumes, dual pinches), use your feet to press outward and generate full-body tension. This makes it easier to maintain friction through the hands.

Direction Matters – A vertical pinch is not the same as a side pinch or downward-facing one. Adjust your wrist and elbow angle to match the force direction needed. Pinches rarely work if you try to pull straight down on them.

[Image - Proper Body Position Engaging Pinch]

Quick Tips:

Train your pinch grip. Hangboards often skip this — use blocks, weights, or campus pinch rails to build specific strength. Check out this lesson for pinch block exercises!
Use your thumb! If it’s not working, your "pinch" is just a crimp with poor form.
Look for body tension opportunities — flagging, high steps, or pressing knees in can all help stabilize.
Practice on larger volumes to learn how to use your entire body to support your grip.

Summary

Pinches reward strength, but they punish poor engagement and lazy body positioning. They require full-hand activation, smart use of body compression, and more often than not — a bit of training outside your typical session. Master the mechanics of thumb-finger opposition, stay tight through your torso, and use your whole body to make the most of what pinches offer.