Overhangs — angles steeper than 110° — demand more than strength. They test your ability to move with tension, conserve energy, and use every part of your body efficiently. This lesson covers:
When a wall leans significantly past vertical — usually between 110° and 130° — the climbing gets steep fast. Gravity feels like it’s pulling you straight off the wall, and holds often become larger but more spaced out. Efficient climbing here is about tension, pacing, and precision, not just muscling through.
[Image - Overhang Position with Engaged Core]
On steep terrain, body tension becomes your foundation. Core, hips, shoulders, and legs all work together:
Every movement should reduce load on your arms. Even when dynamic, stay tight and deliberate.
Rest When You Can – Overhangs often have "active" rests: heel hooks, kneebars, or stances
where one arm can recover. Use them.
Breathe With Rhythm – Shallow breathing leads to panic. Sync breath with movement to
regulate energy output.
Read Ahead – Poor planning leads to mid-sequence burnout. Spot rests, cruxes, and clipping
stances before you leave the ground.
Dial in Pace – Go too fast and you’ll burn out; too slow and you’ll pump out. Find a flow
where you stay controlled but don’t linger.
[Image - Rest Position on Steep Route]
Overhangs amplify everything: fatigue, poor technique, and mental clutter. But they also reward disciplined, intelligent movement. Climbing steep isn’t just for the strong — it’s for the efficient. Focus on tension, economy of motion, and using your entire body. Get those right, and the steepest routes will start to feel possible.