Intro to Endurance Climbing

Overview

Endurance isn’t just about hanging on — it’s about climbing efficiently, breathing well, and using rests wisely. This lesson covers:

How to avoid pumping out on long routes
Techniques to conserve energy and recover mid-route
Training strategies to build aerobic climbing capacity

What is Endurance Climbing?

Endurance shows up on long sport routes, marathon traverses, and pumpy gym circuits. It’s less about peak strength and more about smart pacing. Expect:

Sustained Movement: 30+ moves where one mistake can snowball into a blowout
Energy Management: Breathing, pacing, and relaxing where you can — even mid-crux
Strategic Resting: Identifying and maximizing opportunities to recover while on the wall

Climb Without Pumping Out

[Image - Climber Shaking Out Mid-Route]

Pump management is a skill. Here's how to keep going when you're 20 moves in:

Use Efficient Sequences: Choose beta that minimizes force, not just time.
Breathe Rhythmically: Exhale on movement, inhale on rests. Oxygen is energy.
Relax Whenever Possible: Shake out, drop elbows, soften grip. Micro-rests matter.

Remember — burning out isn’t heroic. It’s often a sign you skipped the smarter way through.

Resting on the Wall

Good climbers don’t just “survive” rests — they use them to reset. Learn to:

Find Rest Positions: Kneebars, heel hooks, extended stances — anywhere you can let go with one hand.
Shake Out Effectively: Don't just wag your arms — drop your elbow, hang your hand low, and rotate gently.
Lower Heart Rate: Take deep, slow breaths and soften your focus. Recovery is both physical and mental.

Training for Endurance

Build Aerobic Capacity: ARC training (low intensity, long duration climbing) teaches your forearms to clear pump.

Simulate Route Conditions: Link multiple boulders. Add downclimbs. Climb for time, not just tops.

Use Structured Intervals: Try 4x4s, 3 on / 3 off circuits, or “pump clock” workouts that push the edge of failure.

[Image - Timer Circuit with Active Recovery Between Laps]

Quick Tips:

Practice climbing at 70% effort — smooth and steady, not maxed out.
Log rest positions on redpoint burns — analyze where you should’ve stopped.
Train breathing drills on easy climbs — in through nose, out through mouth.
End every session with a long, light pump — build volume, not just fatigue.
On real routes, pace like a marathon — not a sprint. Save power for the crux.

Summary

Endurance climbing is a test of control, efficiency, and decision-making. Don’t just train to hold on — train to rest, recover, and climb with calm under stress. Master your breath, move smart, and stretch your ability to stay composed across long sequences. If power is the fire, endurance is the fuel.