Crimping is a fundamental skill that can make a significant difference in your climbing performance. Learning how to use various crimp positions and techniques effectively is essential to progress in climbing. Throughout the overview, we’ll cover:
The crimp grip is characterized by an extension of the joints in the finger and sometimes the support of the thumb over them or to the side. This will cause the hand to appear crimped or folded. When utilizing the crimp grip, your fingers should be bent at approximately a 90-degree angle, creating a strong force against the hold. However, this may vary depending on the type and situation (discussed below). Proper finger positioning is crucial for maximizing strength and minimizing injury. However, there are multiple ways to crimp. The four most commonly used are the open crimp, half crimp, and closed crimp.
[Image - Open Crimp]
Open Crimp - A grip where your fingers tendons are more engaged at a 90 degree angle but
still not all the
way
up and fully engaged. The thumb is still not active and not contributing to the grip. This grip position is
best
for easy crimps that need little to no force. It can also be used for resting during a route.
[Image - Half Crimp]
Half Crimp - The half crimp is the most common and versatile crimp. It consists of your
finger tendons being
engaged at a 90 degree angle. However, unlike the open crimp, the tendons will be more engaged and the thumb
will also be playing a part by being either on the side of the hold or pressed against the wall for
additional
balance. This crimp is used for most crimping scenarios where you want to get the most out of the hold
without
risking injury or wasting energy through an aggressive closed crimp.
[Image - Closed Crimp]
Closed Crimp - The closed crimp is the most aggressive type of grip where the tendons are
>90 degrees and
often
fully stretched. The thumb is either on the side of the hold or being used to hold down the gripping
fingers.
This grip is used on extremely small holds when maximum force is required.
In all of these positions, it is essential to engage other parts of your body other than your fingers. Your body’s position plays a crucial role in how effectively you can utilize your crimp grip.
Low Center of Gravity - Keeping your hips low helps distribute your weight evenly and reduces the load on
your
fingers. Engage your core muscles to achieve stability and counterbalance the weight of your upper body.
Foot Placement - Good footwork is vital for maintaining body position. Place your feet strategically to
enhance
your reach and reduce strain on your hands. Good foot placements will allow you to push through your legs
rather
than relying solely on your upper body and hands. When placing your feet, you should try to align your hips
above your feet, and keep your center of gravity close to the wall and lower. Furthermore, if you need to
pull a
certain direction away from the hold, use your feet to shift your center of gravity in the way you will need
to
pull.
[Image - Arrows for Pulling on Angled Crimps]
Dynamic Movement - When transitioning between holds, do so with controlled, deliberate movements. Avoid
sudden
jerks that can throw your body off balance and undermine your grip. Moving fluidly helps you use less of
your
energy and make seamless transitions from hold to hold.
Balance - While crimping, practice balancing your body weight between your hands and feet. Mastering body
positioning and weight distribution is key to climbing efficiency. If you feel yourself barndooring while
crimping, utilize flagging and smearing. Also, try to keep your body close to the wall to remove some of the
stress from your grip and put it on your legs and feet.
Crimping is one of the highest-load positions in climbing — and also one of the easiest ways to damage your fingers if you're not careful. Tendons and pulleys, especially in your fingers, are under intense stress during crimping, particularly in the closed position. Overuse, poor warm-up habits, or incorrect technique can all contribute to common injuries like A2 pulley strains or flexor tendon inflammation.
As a rule of thumb: if you're forcing a closed crimp on every route, you're setting yourself up for injury. Instead, use the open and half crimp where possible, and treat the closed crimp like a last-resort tool. Train progressively and listen to early warning signs—pain, stiffness, or swelling—before they become chronic problems. To learn more check out our Tendon & Pulley Care Article
.Properly crimping is an essential technique for upping your climbing game and preventing injuries. You can utilize the open crimp, half crimp, and closed crimp for different crimps and situations. Furthermore, you can use dynamic movement, your center of gravity, and foot placement to maximize your efficiency while crimping.